LATOK GROUP (7145,7108, 6949m)

latok_05Latok (I, 7145,II,7108,III,6949,IV, 6456) group is a small cluster of dramatic rock peaks in the Panmah Muztagh, part of the central Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan. They lie just to the east of the Ogre group, dominated by Baintha Brakk. To the immediate south of the Latok group lies the Baintha Lukpar Glacier, a small tributary of theBiafo Glacier, one of the main glaciers of the Karakoram. On the north side of the group lies the chocti Glaciers. The group comprises four main summits, each listed here with its relative position in the group, elevation, and first ascent date:

Latok 1. North-Central ,7.145m, Climbed 1979

Latok II.West ,7,108m Climbed 1977

Latok II .East, 6,949m,Climbed 1979, Latok IV. Southeast, 6,456m Climbed 1980

LatokII_2Latok I was first climbed in 1979 by a Japanese expedition led by Naoki Takada; the first summit party comprised Sin’e Matsumi, Tsuneo Shigehiro, Yu Watanabe, and they were followed three days later by Hideo Muto, Jun’ichi Oku, and Kota Endo. They started from the Baintha Lukpar Glacier and climbed a buttress to reach the East Ridge.

The steep North Ridge of Latok I, 2,500 m (8,200 ft) high, is a notorious unclimbed route: it was first attempted,  by the   American  climbers Jim Donini Michael Kennedy, George Lowe, and Jeff Lowe. The lightweight style of this climb was widely admired, despite the lack of a summit.

Latok II saw its first ascent in 1977, by an Italian group led by Arturo Bergameschi. (This was the first successful ascent in the group.) They climbed the southeast face of the peak, and second summit was in 1997.

The first ascent of Latok III came in 1979, when a Japanese team under the leadership of Yoji Teranishi climbed the Southwest Ridge route. They climbed the Southwest Ridge, and the summit party were Teranishi, Kazushige Takami, and Sakae Mori.

Itinerary:

Sr.No Program Time(Hrs) Stay  
Day-01 Arrival In Pakistan Hotel
Day-02 Fly to Skardu,subject to weather,Drive to  chilas 11-12 Hotel
Day-03 Drive from Chilas to Skardu 8-9 Hotel
Day-04 Drive to Askoli 6-7 Camp
Day-05 Trek  to Namla  camp 5-6 Camp
Day-06 Trek to Mango Camp 5-6 Camp
Day-07 Trek to Basecamp 3-4 Camp
 Day-08-30 Climbing Period Camp
Day-31 Trek back to mango camp 7-8 Camp
Day-32 Trek to Askoli Village Camp
Day-33    Drive to Skardu 5-6 Hotel
Day-34 Flight to Islamabad,subject to weather,Drive to Chilas  8-9 Hotel
Day-35 Drive from Chilas to Islamabad 11-12 Hotel
Day-36 Onward to your own Distinations

 

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